EP2 Grease

Where EP2 grease belongs on your car or trailer

EP2 grease works wherever metal parts move against each other under load and need a lubricant that stays in place. The lists below give you a quick suitability check before you start.

Yes, suitable here:

• Suspension and steering joints with grease nipples
• Ball joints and chassis points the manufacturer describes as greaseable
• Door, bonnet, and tailgate hinges on cars and vans
• Handbrake linkages, pedal pivots, and metal seat rails
• Trailer couplings, tow bar mechanisms, and jockey wheels on caravans and trailers
• Older or trailer wheel bearings where the manufacturer specifies an EP2 lithium grease (check your manual before applying)

Not suitable here:

• Brake pads, discs, drums, or any nearby surface where contamination would reduce braking
• Inside the engine, gearbox, or differential
• Modern sealed-for-life wheel hubs with no grease nipple
• Electrical connectors or contact surfaces, where grease attracts dirt and disrupts conductivity
• Components near the exhaust or brake calipers that regularly exceed 130 degrees C (use a high temperature grease there instead)

For these joints and hinges you use Lindemann EP Grease, a multi-purpose lithium EP2 grease (NLGI 2) rated from -30 degrees C to +130 degrees C, suitable for automotive and trailer applications.

Is EP2 grease safe here?

EP2 grease is designed for metal surfaces. It handles high loads well and provides good corrosion resistance, but it is not universally safe on every material it might touch. Mineral-oil-based EP2 grease can cause swelling or softening in certain rubbers over time, so keep it inside the joint and avoid smearing it on rubber dust boots or seals unless the product data sheet confirms compatibility. On modern cars, hybrids, and electric vehicles, EP2 grease is equally appropriate for mechanical joints because it has nothing to do with the fuel system or drivetrain electronics. The one area to avoid on any vehicle is electrical connectors and contact surfaces.

Generally safe:

• Metal hinges, linkages, and joints where rubber boots only cover the outside of the joint and the grease stays inside
• Chassis and trailer components on modern cars, hybrids, and electric vehicles, as long as you avoid brakes and electrical contacts

Avoid or check first:

• Brake caliper guide pins: these often require a high-temperature, rubber-safe grease; check your service data before applying EP2
• Rubber seals and dust boots: do not coat them in EP2 grease; apply grease to the metal inside the joint only
• Sealed bearings and sealed-for-life hubs: if there is no grease nipple, do not attempt to add EP2 grease

How to apply EP2 grease correctly

The method depends on whether you are working on an open surface or a joint with a grease nipple. Both approaches are straightforward.

Applying by hand (brush or gloves):

• Wipe away old, dirty grease with a cloth or a small amount of mild degreaser, and let the surface dry before regreasing
• Use a small brush or a gloved finger to apply a thin, even layer across the full contact area of hinges, latches, and seat rails
• Move the part a few times so the grease spreads across the contact surfaces, then wipe off any surplus that would otherwise collect dirt

Applying with a grease gun:

• Attach the grease gun coupler to the grease nipple (sometimes called a zerk fitting) until it seats firmly
• Pump slowly until fresh EP2 grease appears at the edge of the joint or you feel slight resistance; that is your signal to stop
• Do not try to force in more grease once resistance builds; overpressure can push out seals or split rubber boots

Too much grease in a closed joint builds pressure and can damage rubber boots or seals, so stop as soon as fresh grease shows at the joint edge.

For both hand application and grease gun use, Lindemann EP Grease is available for this category.

How often should you reapply EP2 grease?

Regreasing too rarely leads to increased wear; regreasing too often attracts unnecessary dirt. The table below gives practical starting intervals for the most common applications.

EP2 grease vs. spray lubricant, silicone grease, and white lithium grease

Choosing the right product type saves you a repeat job. The table below covers the three most common alternatives.

For components near the exhaust or brake calipers where operating temperatures regularly exceed 130 degrees C, neither EP2 grease nor a spray lubricant is sufficient: a high temperature grease is the correct product for those areas. EP2 grease is also not an anti-seize paste; anti-seize is used on threads during assembly to prevent seizure, not for ongoing lubrication of moving joints.

When greasing is not enough

EP2 grease reduces friction and can stop squeaking quickly in dry hinges and lightly loaded joints. What it cannot do is reverse mechanical wear. If a joint or bearing is already damaged, adding grease may quiet it briefly, but the underlying problem remains and will return.

Go to a garage if you notice:

• Knocking or clunking from suspension or steering that continues after greasing
• Humming, rumbling, or unusual heat from a wheel hub, particularly at higher speeds
• Visible play in a joint or bearing when you move the wheel or push the component by hand
• A split or torn rubber boot on a ball joint or track rod end
• Any noise that returns quickly after greasing, or that feels worse under braking or when cornering

Wheel bearing noise in particular does not improve with greasing and requires bearing replacement. A mechanic can identify whether the part needs service or replacement before you invest more time in lubrication.

If you are unsure whether a component is designed to be greased or is sealed for life, the answer is in your owner's manual or a quick call to your dealer. Getting that confirmation first is always the safer approach.