Bike Lubricants

Which bike lubricant do you need?

Different riding conditions call for different lubricant types. Use the table below to find the right match for your situation.

A wet chain lubricant stays on the chain longer in rain and winter but tends to attract more dirt over time. A dry lubricant spray leaves a cleaner, lighter film that suits dry or dusty conditions well, though it washes out more quickly in wet weather. Greases and assembly paste are separate products for bearing service and component installation, not for regular chain maintenance.

Are these products suitable for your bike?

DPP bike lubricants are suitable for everyday city bikes, trekking bikes, mountain bikes, road bikes, and e-bikes. They are designed for bicycles and are safe to use when applied as directed, whether your bike is a basic commuter or a mid-range e-bike.

On e-bikes, you can safely use chain lubricants on all mechanical parts: the chain, derailleur, and cables. Do not apply lubricant to sealed motor units, electrical contacts, or the motor housing. Those parts are not user-serviceable and do not require lubrication.

Using bike lubricants as part of routine maintenance does not affect your bike manufacturer's warranty. They are standard maintenance products, comparable to checking tyre pressure or adjusting brakes.

On incidental contact with plastics, rubber, or paint: these lubricants are generally safe, but always wipe off any excess promptly and avoid leaving product on these surfaces for extended periods.

The same lubricants are suitable for children's bikes. Keep the following points in mind:

Apply on:

• Chain and drivetrain
• Derailleur pivots
• Cables and cable housings (where appropriate)
• Locks, pedals, and small hinges (multi spray or PTFE spray, as indicated on the label)

Do not apply on:

• Disc brake rotors and brake pads
• Rim braking surfaces
• Tyres, saddle, hand grips, and pedal surfaces (slip risk)
• Electrical connectors or sealed e-bike motor units

Even a small amount of lubricant on disc brake rotors or pads significantly reduces braking power. If contamination occurs, clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol and replace the pads if braking performance does not fully recover.

How to apply chain lubricant correctly

1. Check the chain. Wipe the chain with a clean cloth to remove loose dirt. If the chain is visibly black and greasy, degrease it properly before lubricating. Applying new lubricant over old contamination traps grit inside the chain links and increases wear. For heavily contaminated chains, use a suitable chain cleaner and allow the chain to dry completely before moving on.
2. Apply the lubricant sparingly. Add chain oil drop by drop to each link, or apply a thin, continuous film along the inside of the chain. Work along the full length of the chain.
3. Rotate the pedals. Turn the pedals backwards several times to help the lubricant work into the chain links.
4. Wipe off the excess. Hold a clean cloth against the chain and rotate the pedals again. Remove all surface excess. Over-lubrication attracts dirt, accelerates wear, and leaves oil stains on clothing and surroundings.
5. Avoid the brakes. Check that no lubricant has reached the brake rotors, pads, or rim surfaces before riding.

Avoid this:

• Lubricating a chain that is visibly dirty without first removing the contamination.
• Using thick general-purpose grease or universal penetrating sprays as your regular chain lubricant.
• Spraying lubricant near disc brakes; overspray on rotors or pads reduces braking power.
• Flooding the chain with product; more lubricant does not mean better protection.
• Mixing many different lubricants on one chain. Combining household oils, silicone sprays, and penetrating products creates an uncertain film, attracts more dirt, and may affect rubber seals in certain components.

How often should you lubricate your bike chain?

The right interval depends on how and where you ride:

• City commuting in normal conditions: lubricate every 150 to 300 kilometres, or whenever the chain starts to sound dry or squeak.
• Rain or winter riding: re-lubricate immediately after heavy rain or intensive cleaning, once the chain has dried.
• Dry or dusty conditions (dry lube): dry lubricants wash out faster, so re-apply more regularly than in normal conditions, or whenever the chain starts to sound dry or squeak.
• E-bike daily commuting: higher daily mileage means you may reach your re-lubrication interval more quickly than you expect. Follow the packaging instructions and check the chain regularly.
• After cleaning: always re-lubricate once the chain is dry, regardless of when you last applied product.

If the chain sounds dry or squeaky, or feels rough and resistant when you turn the pedals by hand, it is time to re-lubricate regardless of the distance ridden.

When lubricant is not enough

Lubricant reduces friction, prevents rust, and keeps a healthy chain running smoothly. It does not repair mechanical wear or structural damage. If your drivetrain has a more serious problem, adding lubricant will not solve it.

Go to a bike mechanic when:

• Your chain stays noisy or squeaky after you have cleaned and lubricated it correctly.
• You see stiff links that do not move freely even after lubrication.
• Your gears keep skipping or shifting poorly despite a clean and lubricated drivetrain.
• Your chain is heavily rusted and looks uneven or stretched. In that case, replacement is likely cheaper and safer than attempting to restore it with lubricant.
• Lubricant has contacted disc brake rotors or pads and braking feels weak or inconsistent. Clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol; if braking does not fully recover, have the pads replaced.

Bike-specific lubricant vs. WD-40 and household oils

WD-40 and general household oils are not formulated for bicycle chains. They typically have the wrong viscosity for a drivetrain, wash out quickly under riding conditions, and leave a residue that attracts grit and accelerates chain wear. Automotive spray lubricants and penetrating oils have the same limitations and may also affect rubber seals in certain hub or derailleur components.

Bike-specific lubricants use additives matched to the load, speed, and materials of a bicycle drivetrain. They are designed to balance friction reduction, wear protection, and dirt behaviour in a way that general-purpose products are not.

For practical reference: use grease for internal bearings such as wheel hubs, the headset, and the bottom bracket. Use chain oil or a dry lube for the chain. Use PTFE spray or multi spray for small moving parts, pivots, and cables, not as a substitute for chain oil in regular riding.

If you are unsure whether to start with the chain care bundle or the complete maintenance bundle, the deciding factor is simple: if your chain has been neglected for a long time or you want to service more than just the chain, the Total Bundle gives you everything you need in one package.