Bike Grease

Which bike grease do I need?

The quickest way to the right product is to match your application to the correct type:

The core distinction is between rolling interfaces and clamped interfaces. Bearings and rotating parts need grease, which reduces friction between moving surfaces. Seat posts, stems, pedal threads and saddle rails need assembly paste, which prevents seizing and controls clamping behaviour. Assembly paste is not a substitute for bearing grease, and bearing grease is not a substitute for assembly paste: using grease where paste is needed can result in slipping or incorrect torque.

On the type differences: Ball Bearing Grease and Bearing Grease are similar in function, both suited to standard bicycle bearings. Bearing Grease is often the preferred choice for sealed or cartridge bearings. EP2 Grease is worth using on cargo bikes and e-bikes, where heavier loads can squeeze a standard grease out of the contact zone faster. It is not universally "better," only appropriate where the load justifies it. High Temperature Grease is only needed near actual heat sources, such as disc brake caliper pivots or components adjacent to an e-bike motor. For most standard bearings on city, road or MTB bikes, a standard grease is sufficient. Foodgrade Grease is a regulation-driven choice for bikes used in food-handling environments. It offers similar mechanical performance to standard grease, but is not needed for normal home cycling. Different grease types also vary in base chemistry (lithium, ceramic, PTFE), but for most home mechanics the intended use (bearing, EP, high-temperature) matters more than the chemistry. A detailed comparison of base types belongs in a separate guide.

If you want to cover a full seasonal service in one go, including bearings, chain and general maintenance, the Velorest Total Bundle contains multiple maintenance products so you can handle both grease tasks and chain lubrication without buying separately.

Where does grease go on a bike, and where does it not?

Grease or assembly paste goes here:

• Wheel hubs (serviceable bearings, front and rear)
• Bottom brackets, when they are serviceable or threaded
• Headset bearings, when opened for inspection or service
• Pedal bearings, if the design allows servicing
• Suspension pivots and linkage bearings, where the manufacturer specifies grease
• Seat post in frame, stem and handlebar clamps, pedal threads, and saddle rails (use assembly paste here, not bearing grease)

Do not apply grease here:

• Chain: grease is too thick for chain use, attracts dirt and impairs shifting. Use a dedicated chain lubricant instead.
• Brake pads, rotors and rim braking surfaces: grease here is a safety risk.
• Tyre contact surfaces.
• Electrical connectors and e-bike battery contacts.
• Saddle surface, grips, painted frame sections and any surface where grease causes contamination rather than protection.

For chain lubrication in wet conditions, Velorest Chain Lube Wet 100ML is the right choice. For ongoing chain care, the Velorest Chain Care Bundle gives you everything needed to maintain the chain properly, without reaching for bearing grease.

On carbon seat posts and carbon handlebar clamps, use a carbon-specific assembly paste, not standard bearing grease. The micro-particles in carbon paste increase friction at the interface, which means you can tighten to the correct (lower) torque without the component slipping. Standard grease makes the interface too slippery, which leads to either over-tightening or slippage under load. For a full guide on carbon assembly paste and torque values, see our dedicated article [link placeholder].

How much grease, and how often?

Dosage:

• For bearings (hubs, bottom brackets, headsets): apply enough grease to fully coat the balls and races. Do not pack the housing so full that grease is forced out heavily on reassembly.
• For clamped interfaces (seat posts, stems, threads): apply a thin, even smear of assembly paste on the contact surface. A thick layer is not more effective.
• For suspension pivots and linkage bearings: cover the moving surfaces lightly and wipe away any visible excess before it collects dirt.

Frequency:

• Hubs and bottom brackets on a regularly used bike: regrease when you notice roughness, play or noise, or follow the interval on the product packaging.
• After heavy rain, prolonged wet riding or pressure washing: regrease sooner, regardless of the last service date.
• Headset: regrease when steering feels notchy, or during fork removal for inspection.
• Assembly paste on seat posts and stems: reapply only when you remove and refit the component. You do not need to add paste on a fixed, assembled part.

Over-greasing:

• Excess grease does not improve lubrication. It attracts dirt, which accelerates wear rather than preventing it.
• Heavily overpacked bearings can push grease past seals, drawing in contaminants and creating a mess on the hub shell.
• Wiping away visible excess after assembly is part of good practice, not an optional step.

For a step-by-step bearing cleaning and regreasing guide, see our dedicated article [link placeholder].

What does bike grease do, and what doesn't it fix?

Applied correctly, bike grease reduces friction and wear in bearings and moving interfaces, protects against corrosion, and forms a barrier that slows water and dirt ingress. It can stop creaks caused by dry or slightly corroded interfaces, particularly at seat posts, stems and pedal threads. Grease also helps bearings and components last longer when used alongside proper cleaning at each service interval.

What grease does not do:

• Grease does not repair worn or pitted bearings. If a bearing still feels rough or noisy after thorough cleaning and correct regreasing, it needs to be replaced. Regreasing a damaged bearing only delays the problem.
• Grease does not clean. Old, contaminated grease must be removed before you apply fresh product.
• Grease does not fix structural problems such as bent axles, damaged cups or misaligned components.
• Grease does not replace chain lubricant. Using it on the chain attracts dirt and impairs shifting.
• Grease cannot substitute for professional service when complex components require special tools or expertise.

Grease does provide a degree of water resistance and corrosion protection, but exposure to heavy rain, road spray and time will gradually break it down. That is why regreasing at regular intervals makes sense on a regularly used bike.

When is a workshop the better choice?

• Press-fit bottom brackets (where the bearing cups are pressed into the frame rather than threaded in) require special tools to remove and refit safely. Attempting this without the right equipment risks damaging the frame.
• E-bike motor bearings and internal motor components need professional disassembly. Applying grease to the outside of a sealed motor housing does not reach the bearing inside.
• Suspension linkage bearings on MTBs often require specific service tools and manufacturer torque settings.
• If a bearing remains rough or noisy after cleaning and regreasing, it needs replacement, not another round of grease.
• Any issue involving brakes or steering on your bike: treat these as safety-critical and take the bike to a workshop.

Can I use bike grease on my car?

Bike grease is formulated for bicycle components, not as an automotive-specific grease. For light, non-safety-critical car parts such as door hinges and bonnet or boot latches, a small amount of bike grease can work in the short term, provided the surfaces are clean and dry first. It is not water- and salt-resistant enough for exposed car parts in harsh winter conditions, so a dedicated automotive grease will last longer there.

Do not use bike grease on:

• Brake components (pads, rotors, calipers, slide pins): only the correct brake-specific product, applied by a garage, belongs here.
• Steering and suspension parts.
• Wheel bolts and wheel seating surfaces.
• Electrical contacts, sensors, door lock mechanisms and central locking systems.
• Clutch and other drivetrain components.

On mixing products: if you have already applied a penetrating spray such as WD-40 to a part, clean and dry it thoroughly before applying grease. Using one suitable product per component gives more predictable results than layering different lubricants.

For any safety-critical part, or persistent noise in brakes, steering or suspension, visit a garage rather than experimenting with bike grease.

If you are unsure whether your situation calls for grease, assembly paste, or a different product entirely, the application table above is the fastest starting point. When in doubt between two grease types, choose based on your bike type and the load on the bearing: standard grease for most bikes, EP2 where the load is genuinely higher.