Greases

Which grease for which job

The quickest route to the right choice is matching your situation to the grease type. Use this as your starting point.

EP2 grease and bearing grease are not interchangeable in every situation. EP2 carries extreme-pressure additives that protect under shock loads and heavy mechanical stress, which makes it the right choice for chassis and driveline points. Bearing grease is optimised for rolling-element bearings at moderate loads and speeds. For brake-adjacent work, neither is suitable; that is where high temperature grease belongs.

Assembly paste is for installation only. Once a component is assembled and in operation, it does not function as a running lubricant. For rotating or sliding surfaces in service, bearing grease takes over.

Where grease does not belong

Getting this wrong can cause serious problems, so this section is worth reading before you start.

• Brake friction surfaces, rotors and drums: any grease here will contaminate the surface and cause brake failure. There are no exceptions.
• Brake pads (friction side): only the back of the pad and the pad-to-carrier contact points may be greased, and only with a high temperature product.
• Drive belts and pulleys: grease causes slipping and accelerates belt wear. Keep all lubricants away from belt-driven components.
• ABS sensors and sensor rings: grease can attract metal particles and interfere with the sensor signal. Keep the area clean.
• Sealed-for-life bearings on modern cars: these are not designed to be opened or regreased. Attempting to do so can damage the seal and introduce contamination.
• Rubber seals, dust boots and door seals: standard automotive greases are not safe for direct contact with most rubber compounds. They can cause swelling or cracking over time. Use a product that explicitly states rubber compatibility, or use silicone-based lubricant.
• Plastic clips and housings: unless the product specifically states plastic compatibility, do not apply grease to plastic parts.
• Wheel bolt threads (without checking first): if your vehicle manufacturer specifies dry torque for wheel bolts, grease on the threads changes the effective clamping force at a given torque setting. This can result in under- or over-tightening. Check your service documentation before applying anything to wheel bolt threads.

If grease has landed somewhere it should not, wipe off as much as possible immediately, clean the area with a suitable degreaser, and inspect the component before using the vehicle. For brake components, do not drive until the area has been properly cleaned and checked.

How much, how often, and how to apply

Amount

• Serviceable wheel bearings: fill to roughly 30 to 50 percent of the internal free volume. Overfilling traps heat, increases drag, and can cause the bearing to fail faster than an empty one would.
• Grease nipples on joints: pump until fresh grease appears at the edge of the seal. Stop there. Continuing to pump risks rupturing the dust seal.
• Door hinges, latches and contact surfaces: a thin, even layer is enough. Wipe away any excess; surplus grease collects dirt and makes the problem worse over time.
• Threads and assembly points: apply a very thin film to the mating surfaces only. More is not better, and excess paste can affect torque accuracy.

Frequency

• Door hinges, bonnet latches and boot hinges: once or twice a year under normal use. In areas with road salt or high rainfall, do this before and after winter.
• Tow bar and exposed contact points: more frequently in wet or salty conditions; before and after winter as a minimum.
• Wheel bearings: only at service or replacement intervals, not as a routine top-up between services.
• Bike bearings: at scheduled overhauls, or when you notice roughness, noise or resistance during pedalling or steering.

Method

• Tube: suitable for small, accessible points such as hinges, latches and threads. Apply directly or use a small disposable brush for more control.
• Brush: useful for flat or visible contact surfaces, such as pad-to-carrier contact points or exposed sliding faces.
• Grease gun: for components with grease nipples. Attach the coupler, pump slowly, and stop when fresh grease appears.
• Before switching grease types: remove as much old grease as possible before applying a new type or brand. Different grease formulations can be chemically incompatible, and mixing them can cause the mixture to soften or lose its protective structure.

Can you mix greases, and does brand matter?

Different grease types are not always chemically compatible. Mixing a lithium-based EP2 grease with a calcium-based or polyurea grease on the same component can cause the mixture to soften, separate, or lose its protective structure. This is not always immediately visible, but the result is reduced protection. The practical rule is straightforward: clean out as much old grease as possible before applying a new type or brand. This is especially important when switching from one thickener type to another.

Assembly paste and bearing grease are sometimes confused, but they serve different purposes. Assembly paste is for one-time use during installation: threads, splines, seat posts and bolted interfaces where you want to prevent seizing and ensure accurate torque. It is not a running lubricant for bearings. Once a component is in operation, bearing grease is the right product for rotating or sliding surfaces.

Grease vs spray lubricant: grease is the right choice for open, slow-moving or heavily loaded parts, where it stays in place and provides lasting protection. Spray lubricants are better suited to small, light mechanisms, door locks, and places where a thick grease would attract too much dirt or be difficult to apply. If the part is exposed to load or moisture over time, grease holds up better.

On copper, ceramic and standard grease: copper paste and ceramic paste are not general-purpose greases. They are high-temperature assembly products, typically used on brake component contact points and bolted interfaces where heat resistance and anti-seize properties matter. They are not interchangeable with standard bearing or EP2 grease.

On brand and price: for high-heat and high-load applications, the quality of the grease matters. A product that loses its structure at operating temperature, or breaks down under load, provides no protection at the moment it is needed most. For simple hinges and latches, a solid basic grease is usually sufficient. For brake-adjacent components, bearings and chassis joints, use a product that is clearly rated for the application.

When grease is not the answer

Knowing where the line is between a greasing job and a garage job is as important as choosing the right product.

Jobs that are safe and realistic for a home mechanic:

• Door hinges, bonnet latches and boot hinges
• Tow bar contact points and coupling surfaces
• Bike seat posts, pedal threads and stem bolts (during assembly or reassembly)
• Bike hub and headset bearings, if you have basic mechanical confidence and the right tools
• Visible grease nipples on older vehicles, where the component is in good condition

Jobs that belong at a garage:

• Wheel bearings that are noisy, vibrating or have play: grease will not fix a mechanically worn bearing. That is a replacement job, and it affects road safety.
• Brake caliper service: the correct product and application matter here, and an error can reduce braking performance. If you are not confident, have it done professionally.
• Suspension or steering joints with play, knocking or torn dust boots: these affect vehicle handling and need inspection before any lubrication is applied.
• Any component showing unexplained heat, vibration, uneven tyre wear or visible damage: these are diagnostic problems, not maintenance problems. Grease is not the first step.

On the question of warranty: applying grease against manufacturer specifications, or greasing sealed-for-life components that are not designed to be serviced, can conflict with maintenance requirements and may affect warranty coverage. If you are unsure whether a component on your car is user-serviceable, check the service documentation or ask a garage before proceeding.

Storing grease at home

• Store grease in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and heat sources.
• Seal the lid or cap tightly after each use. Contamination from dirt, water or metal particles shortens the product's service life significantly.
• Keep different grease types separate and clearly labelled to avoid accidental mixing.
• Discard any grease that has hardened, crumbled, separated visibly into oil and solid, or developed an unusual smell. These are signs that the product is no longer fit for use.

If you are unsure which product fits your specific situation, the choice-helper table above is the fastest starting point: match your job to the grease type, check the note column for any condition that applies to your car or bike, and go from there. For anything involving noise, play or heat in a component, a garage inspection is the right first step before any product goes on.